Brief History of Bay Ridge (2024)

Bay Ridge is a vibrant, multicultural, and family-friendly neighborhood that boasts a picturesque waterfront setting in the southwest corner of Brooklyn. Overlooking the entrance to New York Harbor, with views of the Narrows and the Belt Parkway to the west, Bay Ridge is flanked by the bustling Sunset Park to the north and the charming Dyker Heights to the east. To the south, it is bordered by the historic Fort Hamilton Army Base and the iconic Verrazano-Narrows Bridge. This prime location offers residents and visitors a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural diversity, and convenient access to both urban amenities and serene green spaces.

NOTE: Originally, the present-day Bay Ridge area was named "Yellow Hook" for its distinctive yellow hint in the soil. It was a part of New Utrecht, established in 1657 by the Dutch settlers, hence the frequent references to New Utrecht in this article.

Maps above:
present day Bay Ridge (Google Maps)
Yellow Hook in 1776 (Library of Congress)

The ‘Ridge’in Bay Ridge stems from a geological feature formed by the last Ice Age - a natural elevation that offers breathtaking vistas of the bay and beyond. The ridge has served multiple purposes over the centuries, from a strategic military lookout point to a flood resilient, highly valued farming, residential and commercial development land. Today, Bay Ridge's ridge remains a beloved and prominent part of the neighborhood's landscape, providing a scenic backdrop for parks, homes, and businesses.

The Narrows, between Red and Yellow Hook,
on Long Island and the east bluff of Staten Island
ca. 1770
source: New York Public LibraryOn April 17, 1524, Giovanni da Verrazzano, an esteemed Florentine explorer sailing under the French flag, made an indelible mark in history by navigating through the Narrows. Commanding his three-masted vessel named La Dauphine, Verrazzano became the pioneering European to venture into the vast expanse of Upper New York Bay.

Giovanni da Verrazano
and La Dauphine;
Public domain, via Wikimedia

September 11, 1609,marked another significant moment in history as Henry Hudson, an English sea explorer commissioned by the Dutch East India Company with the mission of discovering an eastern passage to Asia, set sail aboard his vessel, the Half Moon. Guiding his ship into the Upper New York Bay, Hudson embarked on a remarkable expedition along the waterway that would later be christened the Hudson River in his honor. It was this journey that solidified the Dutch claims to the region, shaping the course of future exploration and settlement in the area.

Henry Hudson and The Half Moon;
Public domain, via Wikimedia

During the mid-1600s, the vibrant region was inhabited by the Canarsee, a prominent tribe of Lenape Indians. The Canarsee tribe thrived in the area, engaging in hunting, gathering, and developing particular expertise in fur trading and fishing. They had a rich cultural heritage and played a vital role in the local economy. One notable event in the history of the region occurred in 1626 when the Canarsee and other Lenape tribes entered into a transaction with the Dutch settlers. As part of this exchange, the Canarsee tribe is renowned for supposedly selling the island of Manhattan to the Dutch for the now-famous price of $24. This transaction, although subject to some debate and historical interpretation, played a significant role in shaping the early colonial history of the area. The Canarsee tribe's presence and their interactions with the Dutch and other settlers reflect the complex dynamics of early European colonization and the indigenous peoples' experiences during this period.

Alfred Fredericks, Manhattan Purchase;
Public domain, via Wikimedia

Kieft's War (1643-1645)- the growing conflicts between European settlers and the Lenape Indians escalated into a devastating and violent chapter in the region's history. Named after Willem Kieft, the governor of New Netherland at the time, this war was characterized by brutal actions and atrocities committed by the Dutch against the Lenape. Under false pretenses, Governor Kieft authorized aggressive military campaigns that resulted in the deaths of numerous Lenape Indians, including women and children. The violence inflicted upon the Lenape during this period was so severe that the Natives referred to it as "The Years of the Blood." Accounts from Dutch navigator David Pieterszoon de Vries, documented in his journals, depict horrifying scenes of cruelty and inhumanity: “Infants were torn from their mother's breasts, and hacked to pieces in the presence of their parents, and pieces thrown into the fire and in the water, and other sucklings, being bound to small boards, were cut, stuck, and pierced, and miserably massacred in a manner to move a heart of stone. Some were thrown into the river, and when the fathers and mothers endeavored to save them, the soldiers would not let them come on land but made both parents and children drown.” - These accounts paint a distressing picture of the atrocities committed during Kieft's War, illustrating the immense suffering endured by the Lenape people at the hands of the Dutch colonial forces. It is a dark chapter in the history of the region and serves as a stark reminder of the devastating consequences of such conflicts and the profound impact they had on indigenous communities.

February 26, 1643, Kieft ordered the massacre of 120 Lenape men,
women, and children in the areas of Pavonia and Corlears Hook,
today's Jersey City and Lower Manhattan; Public domain, via WikimediaIn 1645,Native American leaders and Governor Kieft held a meeting in an effort to negotiate an end to the conflict. Kieft's War had taken a devastating toll, with an estimated loss of around 1,600 Native Americans and hundreds of colonists. Following the conclusion of the war, Kieft's actions and conduct during the conflict came under severe scrutiny. As a result, he was recalled from his position as governor and summoned to Amsterdam to face accountability for his actions. However, Kieft's journey back to Amsterdam tragically ended with his death. Historically, Willem Kieft is remembered as one of the worst governors in the annals of colonial America. His leadership and decision-making during Kieft's War resulted in immense loss of life and profound suffering, leaving a lasting impact on both the Native American population and the colonial settlers. The repercussions of his actions and the subsequent evaluation of his tenure highlight the consequences of irresponsible governance and the need for accountability in the context of colonial history.

Smoking a Peace Pipe;
Public domain, via Wikimedia

In 1652, Cornelius Van Werckhoven, a member of the Dutch West India Company and a citizen of Utrecht, Holland, embarked on a journey to the New World with the purpose of acquiring land from the indigenous inhabitants. His arrival marked the beginning of official land ownership in the Bay Ridge area. Assisted by Jacques Cortelyou, a French Huguenot, Van Werckhoven successfully negotiated the purchase of over 1000 acres of land in the region in exchange for a variety of goods, including two shirts, two pairs of shoes, six pairs of stockings, six adzes, six knives, two scissors, and six combs. Van Werckhoven's extensive land holdings encompassed present-day Fort Hamilton, Bay Ridge, Dyker Heights, Bensonhurst, Borough Park, and Bath Beach. Upon Van Werckhoven's passing in 1655, Jacques Cortelyou assumed leadership of the settlement.

1. Jaques Cortelyou (Cortelliau)
2. The Lord Councillor & Fiscal Nicasius de Sille
3. Pieter Buys
4. Jacob Hellickers alias Swart
5. Joncker Jacobus Corlear
6. Johan Tomasse
7. Rutgert Joosten
8. Pieter Roeloffse
9. Cornelis Beeckman
10. Johan Zeelen
11. Albert Albertsen
12. William Willemsen
13. Huybert Hoock
14. Pieter Jansen
15. Jan Jacobson
16. Jacobus Backer
17. Jacob Pietersen
18. Claes Claessen
19. Teunis Joosten
20. "...held for the poor..."

These settlers played vital roles in shaping the community's early years and their contributions were passed down through generations, ensuring the sustained growth and prosperity of the area.

source: Reminiscences of Old New Utrecht and Gowanus
by Mrs. Bleecker Bangs

Following the establishment of New Utrecht, Jacques Cortelyou and Rutgert Joosten Van Brunt continued their rise to prominence and assumed significant roles in local government. In 1675, Jacques Cortelyou was appointed as the first Justice of the Peace for the town of New Utrecht. This esteemed position tasked him with maintaining law and order, settling disputes, and ensuring the fair administration of justice within the settlement. Cortelyou's extensive land holdings included his residence situated on the Narrows, now the site of Fort Hamilton. Furthermore, he acquired the Cowenhoven Farm near Gowanus, renowned for its agricultural productivity, specifically for the benefit of his sons. Both families' influence endured for generations, with their descendants holding the position of Town Supervisor well into the late 18th century, exemplifying the lasting impact of their lineages on the community.

The Jacques Cortelyou House
(aka the Vechte-Cortelyou House or Old Stone House)
source: http://www.brooklynvisualheritage.org/

The Denyse family is yet another esteemed and significant lineage in the history of Bay Ridge. Their influence spans various areas of the region, with different branches of the family establishing themselves in distinct sections. The family's roots can be traced back to Deonys Theunis, who married the daughter of Jacques Cortelyou in approximately 1685 and settled in the village of Fort Hamilton. Jacques Denys, the son of Deonys Theunis, left a notable impact by constructing a stone homestead along the shoreline, within the boundaries of the present-day Fort Hamilton army base. Denyse Denyse, the eldest son of Jacques Denys, born in 1726, played a significant role by owning and operating the Denyse Wharf, the area's major dock used mainly for ferries, rowboats and sailboats transporting crops and livestock to markets in Manhattan and the City of Brooklyn. In the mid-1700s, the Postmaster General, Benjamin Franklin himself used the wharf to ship mail. The Revolutionary, Civil, and World Wars saw the wharf exploited for military operations. Since then, however, it's been filed as "excess property" by the US Army and thus far all attempts to revitalize it in any form have failed mainly due to the location's logistics, restrictions, and limited access. Although in a state of disrepair, remnants of Denyse Wharf could still be seen behind the mysterious gate right under the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge:
Denyse Wharf remnants in 2022
photo BayRidgeBuzz.com

Some additional prominent founders of New Utrecht includedTeunis Van Pelt, who established his settlement in the vicinity of what is now 18th Avenue and 82nd Street. Notably, Van Pelt was the first European to lay claim to the land that would later become Owl's Head Park. Around 1670, he sold a portion of this land to Swaen Janse Van Lowaanen (or Luane), who is believed to have been a former slave from Sierra Leone or Luanda, Angola. Van Lowaanen established his farm on a hilltop overlooking the Narrows, situated at Shore Road and 69th Street.

In 1677, the local residents established the New Utrecht Reformed Dutch Church. Construction of the original church was completed in 1700. The present building, erected in 1828, still stands at 18th Avenue and 83rd Street and is home to one of the oldest surviving congregations in New York.

New Utrecht Reformed Dutch Church;
photo by Jim Henderson, CC0,
via Wikimedia CommonsWhile the early European settlers began establishing their roots in the New World, the colony itself switched hands between the Dutch and the Englisha number of times during the mid-17th to late 18th-century Anglo-Dutch Wars. In 1664, the English took possession of New Netherlands from the Dutch, and it was during this time that Nieu Amsterdam was renamed New York. Although the Dutch managed to retake the city in 1673, in the following year, via a formal treaty, England took control of all Dutch colonies in North America for good.

On August 26th, 1776, barely two months after the Declaration of Independence was signed, English ships anchored in the Narrows. A firing from a small battery of cannons positioned on the hill where Fort Hamilton was later built was met with British cannon balls demolishing houses somewhere along today's 95th Street. Over 20,000 British and Hessian troops under General Howe unloaded on the shore right at Denyse Wharf, which makes our decrepit pier under the Verrazano Bridge an important part of the Revolutionary War.

Denyse's Ferry, the first place at which the Hessians
and British landed on Long Island Aug. 22nd 1776
A. Brown, Public domain, via Wikimedia CommonsOn August 27th, 1776, British forces marched through New Utrecht and 3rd Ave, seizing control of farms and homesteads, and launched an attack on Washington's Continental Army camp around Brooklyn's highest elevation point, or what we now know as Green-Wood Cemetery. This high-casualty, brutal Battle of Long Island, later dubbed The Battle of Brooklyn was the largest engagement of the American Revolution. American Soldiers, outnumbered and out-skilled, managed to save themselves by crossing the East River and retreating into Manhattan under the cover of a foggy night. The move surprised the British and bought Washington time to recover from the losses, however, the British forces ultimately gained control of the port and the entire area, maintaining their hold until the end of the war. Not only was this a crushing defeat for the Continental Army, but an economic disaster for the locals as the English Navy halted the commercial traffic, took over farms to house soldiers, turned public buildings into military posts, and even converted the Dutch Reformed Church into a military prison. Although the final battle of the American Revolution, the Battle of Yorktown, took place in 1781, informal fighting continued for another two years and it wasn't until 1783 that the English finally left Long Island.

American officer Lord Stirling and 1st Maryland Regiment
Battle of Long Island, by Charles Henry Granger
source: britishbattles.com

During the early 19th century, a crucial coastal defense system was established in the New York Harbor. The natural ridges and cliffs of Yellow Hook above the Narrows proved to be ideal locations for fortifications. In 1812, construction began on Fort Lewis, serving as one of the initial defense structures in the area. Another fortification was erected in 1822 on a small island, which now forms the foundation for one of the Verrazano Bridge's footings. Originally named Fort Diamond due to the island's shape, it was later renamed Fort Lafayette in tribute to General Lafayette, a French military officer, and a vital ally during the Revolutionary War. As land acquisition continued, the development of a significant and permanent fortification progressed. By 1825, the foundation for a large-scale fortification was laid, and in 1831, the construction of the original Fort Hamilton was finally completed. The construction of Fort Hamilton greatly contributed to the development of the village around it. It was populated by soldiers and laborers, mostly Irish immigrants, who had moved to the area looking for job opportunities. As the number of inhabitants increased, new streets were laid out and gradually, new transportation options, such as stagecoaches and horse cars were introduced.

Fort Lafayette and Denyse Wharf in mid 1900's
The Fort was torn down in 1960 during
the Verrazano Bridge construction
photo: secretsi.com

During the Civil War, the forts in Yellow Hook played a crucial role as strongholds for the Union. Alongside Fort Richmond on Staten Island, later renamed Fort Wadsworth, they formed a defensive line that protected the harbor against potential Confederate raids. Fort Hamilton served as the quarters for the 77th Regimen, the King's County Troop, while Fort Lafayette was used as a prison for the Confederate prisoners.

Fort Hamilton, the Narrows, and New York Harbor
F. F. B. Palmer; ca. 1861
via emuseum.org

During both World Wars, Fort Hamilton served as a mobilization center, or a point of departure and return for American troops. Numerous temporary buildings were built to accommodate the influx of new recruits, draftees, and units in training prior to deployment overseas. Today, Fort Hamilton is the only active military fortification in the New York metropolitan area, and serves as an induction center. Its mission is to provide the New York metropolitan area with military installation support for the Army National Guard and the United States Army Reserve.

Disappearing gun at Fort Hamilton
Fort Lafayette in the background
source: Wikipedia | ca.1915
In 1850, a group of artists established a colony known as Ovington Village, named after the family who owned the farmland in the surrounding area. Ovington Village, consisting of small, densely situated lots, represented a shift from the predominantly agricultural landscape of the area to a vibrant sociocultural community. It laid the foundation for the development of a neighborhood characterized by houses of worship, civic institutions, and cultural centers that fostered education, arts, music, and literature. Ovington Village built the first town hall in the area, the Bay Ridge Atheneum, and Ovington Avenue was one of the area’s very first major thoroughfares.

Bay Ridge Athenaeum, ca 1900
Ridge Blvd, bet. Ovington and Bay Ridge Aves
photo: Brooklyn MuseumIn 1853, amidst the global outbreak of yellow fever, the local settlers made a decision to change the name of the area known as Yellow Hook. While there are different accounts and interpretations of the true reason behind the name change, a popular story suggests that it was done to avoid association with the disease. James Weir, a prominent local horticulturist who deeply appreciated the breathtaking views of New York Bay from the high ridge, proposed the name Bay Ridge as an alternative. On December 16th, 1853, residents of Yellow Hook held a vote, and the majority favored the proposal put forth by Weir.

photo: Bay Ridge Historical SocietyThe captivating natural beauty of Bay Ridge eventually started to draw the attention of the wealthy. By the mid-19th century, the area's picturesque scenery, combined with its tranquil surroundings, made it an attractive summer destination for the rich and famous. As a result, a series of magnificent country estates started to emerge along the waterfront ridge, specifically along Shore Road. Despite Bay Ridge's relatively isolated location and limited accessibility primarily by stagecoaches at the time, the invention of the telephone allowed estate owners to stay connected and communicate with their businesses in Manhattan while enjoying the serene ambiance of their rural country estates.

Mansions on Shore Rd and 79th St.
ca. 1900 | photo: hdc.org

With the increasing popularity of Bay Ridge, the construction of local hotels, resorts, and private recreational clubs followed suit, transforming the area into one of New York's most fashionable destinations. Among these notable establishments was The Grand View Hotel, built in 1886. This magnificent 10-story, 1000-guest resort extended from Shore Road all the way down to the water's edge and offered spectacular views from its open-air balconies, a bar, reception and dining rooms, a bowling alley, and a shooting gallery. Unfortunately, despite its splendor, the hotel struggled to achieve financial success. A mere seven years after its construction, the hotel met its demise in a devastating fire caused by an accidental chemical explosion. The fire reduced the once-striking structure to its foundations, bringing an abrupt end to its existence.

The Grand View Hotel, ca 1890
photo: Public Domain

Tennis Courts at the Crescent Athletic Club
with the Gingerbread House in the background
photo: Library of Congress | ca.1920

The late 19th and early 20th centuries brought about significant transportation advancements that had a transformative impact on Bay Ridge.The introduction of electric trolley service lines in the 1890s provided efficient and convenient transportation options for residents and visitors, greatly improving connectivity within the neighborhood and beyond. Around the same time, a train yard at 65th Street along the waterfront established by the Long Island Railroad began servicing the Bay Ridge – Hell Gate Line, a freight line that played a vital role in transporting goods and materials. The presence of the railroad further facilitated trade and commerce in the area, bolstering Bay Ridge's economic growth. In addition to these transportation improvements, a scenic Bay Ridge Parkway was established along the Narrows. This parkway served as a vital link, connecting Bay Ridge with other neighboring towns, including the popular destination of Coney Island.

Bay Ridge Parkway at 2nd Ave
via Ebay | ca 1900

During the 1920s, Bay Ridge experienced an unprecedented real estate boom that resulted in the highest number of new home construction projects in the history of New York City. This era ushered in a new wave of real estate development, transforming old family farms and country retreats into subdivided lots for row houses, detached houses, and apartment buildings, catering to middle- and upper-middle-class families. The construction frenzy was remarkable, as the number of apartment buildings in Bay Ridge surged from 173 to 826 between 1922 and 1923 alone. The architectural trends established during this explosive period continue to define the character of Bay Ridge today, with grand apartment houses showcasing diverse styles such as Neo-Classical, Neo-Georgian, Tudor Revival, and Art Deco. The main avenues are lined with imposing, multi-story apartment buildings featuring commercial fronts, while the side streets are dotted with smaller, residential one- or two-family houses.
Real Estate Ad in 1907
photo: Brooklyn Daily Eagle

The development of Bay Ridge experienced a halt during the challenging times of the Great Depression and World War II. However, this period also witnessed new waves of migration that brought about significant demographic changes. The community, which was originally shaped by predominantly Italian train line construction workers, Irish laborers, and Scandinavian carpenters, saw an influx of Norwegians after their ships sought refuge in Brooklyn during World War II. In fact, post-war Bay Ridge and Sunset Park boasted the world's third-largest population of Norwegians. This marked the beginning of a broader transformation as immigrants from the Middle East, Greece, China, Russia, Poland, and other parts of Eastern Europe began to settle in the area. Their contributions, alongside the existing communities, have established Bay Ridge as one of the most diverse and multicultural neighborhoods in New York City.

Norwegian Day Parade
8th Ave in Sunset Park
May 1961; via forgotten-ny

In 1959, the construction of the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge commenced under the direction of Robert Moses and the Triborough Bridge and Tunnel Authority, despite strong protests and lawsuits from the local community. By the time the upper deck was opened to the public in 1964, it had become the longest suspension bridge in the world. Unfortunately, the construction process required the displacement of around 8,000 Bay Ridge residents, who received minimal compensation for their homes, which were demolished to make way for the extensive approaches connecting the bridge to the highways. Additionally, the historic Fort Lafayette met a similar fate, as it was torn down to accommodate one of the bridge towers on its former island. The opening of the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge led to the immediate closure of the century-old Staten Island ferry, rendering it obsolete. Despite the controversy surrounding its construction, the bridge undeniably revolutionized travel and transportation in the area, and quickly became an iconic symbol of pride for the entire neighborhood.

Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge
source: nyfacts.com

On August 8th, 2007, Bay Ridge experienced a rare and powerful tornado, making it the strongest tornado ever recorded in New York City. With wind speeds reaching up to 130 mph, the tornado left a trail of destruction in its wake. Approximately 40 houses and over 100 cars, mainly along 68th and 69th streets, were significantly impacted by the destructive forces. The storm also wreaked havoc on Leif Ericson Park, resulting in the uprooting of numerous trees and deforesting nearly 40% of the park's greenery. In addition to the property damage, the tornado led to severe street flooding, causing disruptions in transportation and communication systems throughout the city.

Bay Ridge Tornado 2007
source: Daily News

Today, Bay Ridge stands as one of the most sought-after and secure neighborhoods in Brooklyn. With its diverse population, the offerings of the community have evolved, continuously captivating residents and visitors alike with a plethora of exceptional dining, leisure, and entertainment options. Recent subway renovations and the introduction of the NYC Ferry service in 2017 have significantly enhanced commuting to Manhattan and other parts of Brooklyn, making accessibility more convenient than ever. The area is also known for its top-rated schools, providing a compelling draw for young couples, families, and professionals. Additionally, Bay Ridge boasts numerous parks, outdoor spaces, and indoor playgrounds, fostering a sense of liveliness and recreation. Despite the challenges faced during the pandemic, which resulted in the closure of many local businesses, the resilient spirit of the community endured, preserving Bay Ridge's unique character as a self-contained neighborhood with a touch of suburban tranquility.

View of Bay Ridge from Verrazzano Bridge
photo: BayRidgeBuzz.com

Sources:

https://www.6sqft.com/the-battle-of-brooklyn-241-years-later-where-the-fighting-played-out-in-present-day/

http://newyorkshadows.blogspot.com/2011/10/denyse-wharf.html

http://hdc.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Bay-Ridge-Report-Final-091014Smaller.pdf

http://www.educationupdate.com/archives/2013/SEP/HTML/spot-denysewharf.html#.Ylyw--hBzIV

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Revolution

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https://www.brownstoner.com/history/past-and-present-fort-lafayette/

https://www.newyorkalmanack.com/2020/07/kiefts-war-against-native-people-a-primer/

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